Plans

Most of this is from my original post to the 20b_3rotor Yahoo! Group. You can follow the whole discussion thread there. This list has be modified to reflect my current plans based on what I have learned since my original post (most due to the discussion that followed).

My hopes are this page will stay pretty much static. Changes to this page mean changes in plans, which means more time and money. I'm trying to have most things straight before I start.

• Get an engine from FC3S.org.
• I'm going to convert the car to a manual gear box, and TII rear end. I was at first interested in a Torsen differential, but after some reading I don't think it would be suited to this (or perhaps any) car. I believe now the Cusco 1.5 way Type-RS is the way to go.
• I've got to get the mounting plates for the manual transmission welded into the transmission tunnel. Also convertibles that came stock with a manual transmission had an extra brace between the mounts for the automatic. I'll have to see about getting that brace too. These parts should be able to be ordered from Mazda or taken from a parts car if I get a doner TII.
• Since the 20B is from an automatic, I have a counter weight, and will be going with Racing Beat's Lightweight Steel Flywheel.
• The clutch disc is what Pineapple Racing calls the "new material", it has actually been used in tractor-trailers for some time now. Combined with Mazda's street/strip pressure-plate it should be able to hold any amount of torque the 20B can produce without slipping.
• I will be controlling the engine with an ECU from MoTeC the only model I'm really happy with is the M880.
• I'll be replacing a lot of the input/output sensors/devices on the engine with ones more suited to the MoTeC. That includes putting bigger fuel injectors in. But I can keep the stock CAS, that was important to me.
• Of course with the 880 I get to build a custom wiring harness.
• I'm also going to go with the MoTeC CDI 8.
• As for coils, again MoTeC has some recommended units for use with the CDI setup, but I'll still need to find a way to mount six of them in the engine bay.
• Magnecor will build custom spark plug wires to what ever length, with what ever fittings I need. I really like companies that don't have any problem with producing one-offs. I'll be using their R-100 10 mm racing cables.
• Even if I can get the MoTeC to control the OMP (which I think it can), I'm going to go to pre-mix and put a block off plate in place.
• The MoTeC can control the stock factory twin turbos. But the simplicity of a big single to replace them, can't be ignored. To make use of a bigger turbo I'll have to have the engine ported. I'm planning on having the engine rebuilt before I install it. It has been sitting for some time, and I don't want to have the thing blow on my first trip around the block. So I will have it ported at that time.
• So for the single big turbo I think a Turbonetics Super T-72 should be well suited to a ported 20B. They have a matrix on their site that show part number 10970 to be what I want, that is a T-72 compressor with a Q.68 A/R turbine housing. The ceramic ball bearing option will help this large turbo still spool quickly.
• I'll need a custom down pipe no matter. I'll have it fitted with the standard O₂ bung so I can make use of a wide band lambda sensor. I'll have an EGT probe fitted to the turbo manifold if at all possible.
• From the down pipe back, I'll be running Racing Beat's Complete Turbo II Exhaust System. It should flow well enough for the 20B and looks great. I can't wait to hear what this engine sounds like coming through it.
• Air filter, A'PEXi Power Intake, that's easy. I won't need the AFM, so I'll just have something fabricated up to plumb directly to the turbo. R-Magic used to have an adaptor on their website that let one run two air filters and mounted them nicely behind the right headlight. I'll see if I can find that item again.
• FMIC, again obviously required. Will probably have to be pretty much of a custom job. Luckly Turbonetics sells Spearco intercoolers and offers full custom fabrication options.
• Fluidyne radiator and a SPAL electric fan. For the fan, I've got to find out the height and width of the radiator, but I'm shooting for over 2000 cfm of air. That means the SPAL dual 11" or 16" straight blade. I've got to make sure I have proper shrouding. The MoTeC ECU could control the fan relay, or I may just get a stand alone thermostat.
• I'm also going to need an oil cooler or two. I'll also go to Fluidyne for this. I'll have to do some measuring first to find the best model and the best place to mount it.
• Initially I wanted to keep the air conditioning, but it may interfere with the cooling of the car. Besides, this is a convertible, I've got built in air conditioning.
• Upgrade the fuel system drastically. Should have been listed a lot closer to the top. All new lines running from a big pump in the tank.
• All of that makes me go faster, I've also got to stop. I've looked at big brake upgrades, I'm not sure if the cost is justified. I'll just start with some good pads and slotted rotors. The other problem with "big brakes" is the factory compact spare will not fit over larger rotors. Mazda really did over-design the stock braking system. So just a good pair of EBC pads, perhaps their Green Stuff should do nicely. Combined with either EBC's slotted rotors or those from Powerslot.
• I'm going to replace all the pressurized fluid carrying lines in the car with the braided stainless variety, brake lines are no exception.
• Some sort of 17" wheels. I'll need something wider than stock by about two inches so I can get more rubber on the ground. Volk Racing wheels, by Rays made the wheels for the Mazda 787B LeMans car. I have always liked that design. The TE37 is similar, but six spokes instead of five. They can be custom ordered in Mercury Silver (the standard Bronze and White are just too flashy for me), so that should work well.
• For that rubber I think the Bridgestone Potenza S-03 tires will be ideal (for summer). I'll get them as 245/40-17.
• That means I'll probably need flared front fenders. Maraiah Motorsports makes a set of fenders exactly for that reason.
• Suspension upgrades all around. I still need to do a little homework as to what parts I really want to use. It seems that the Type Flex coil-over dampers from Tein are what I want. Their EDFC remote control for stepper motors to adjust the stiffness of the ride seems pretty neat too. I do know I'll have to have the front anti-roll bar custom built to fit the 20B's oil pan.
• I really want to get some cosmetic body work done too. Fix some dings, and get a repaint. Figure while the engine is out would be the best time.
• Could have been mentioned in the section about cooling, I want to get the vented hood that R-Magic makes. Along with the nose that is cut out for the headlights, the side skirts and rear under-spoiler from the Aero Style kit. The nose gives the car sort of a "sleepy eyes" look. Plus I'll be converting the lights to day-time running and 50% brightness. They'll still pop-up for full bright at night. The day running is mostly a safety feature to make sure people see my little car.
• I do need a new trunk lid because the previous owner drilled holes(!) into it to mount a luggage rack. That is a Mazda part. I think the rear end looks a little empty without something back there, Wings West actually makes a tasteful 2 pedestal spoiler that will fit on the trunk.
• Also want to interior cleaned up. Pull the carpet, have it cleaned and re-dyed, if not totally replaced with a new higher quality piece if I can find someone to make one. Actually, the carpet will have to be pulled early on so it doesn't get burnt while welding the transmission mounts in. Replace the old, heavy, tar-like sound deadening material with something more modern like Dynamat.
• If I can find someone up to the job, have the entire interior redone. New dash, center console, and door panels. Nothing tacky, just update the look a little bit and have it fit with a more modern stereo system.
• Relocate the battery to behind the passenger seat (needed to make room under the hood for FMIC plumbing).
• Have a custom rear shelf made to house speakers and amps (nothing huge, just enough to get a good sound system).
• Relocate the spare to the trunk. Not the best place weight wise, but more accessible than under the custom deck.
• New seats, I loved the Mazdaspeed seats, but they seem to have disappeared from the world, so I'll need to track something equal in form, fit, and fashion. Sparco's Milano Prestige seats are so nice, but so expensive.
• Shift/brake boot/knob, and a new steering wheel, just to update those things too. I like Momo's less aggressively styled accessories. Like their Combat shift knobs, Pit Stop hand break handles, and their Top Power steering wheel (poorly designed DHTML site, I can't link to specific parts).
• Replace the top that is just starting to show signs of wear and is splitting a bit on the side pockets.

Last modified on Tuesday, 12-Jun-2007 12:01:03 EDT.